ZAP adhesives guide for modeling

For modeling, I choose a ZAP glue based on the material, the gap between the parts, and the desired strength.

A fluid ZAP cyano glue is suitable for precise assemblies and balsa wood, ZAP-A-GAP offers more versatility, while an Z-Poxy 30-minute epoxy glue becomes particularly interesting for structural bonds subjected to impacts and vibrations.

The difficulty mainly lies in the number of available formulations.

ZAP CA, ZAP-A-GAP, SLO-ZAP, ZAP GEL, POLY-ZAP, PLASTI-ZAP, Zip Kicker, and Z-Poxy do not have the same use.

I therefore suggest comparing them simply, with one goal: to help you choose the right glue before starting your assembly or repair.

If you want to compare more widely the different available solutions, I also recommend checking out our selection of modeling glues.

Key Points to Remember

• The viscosity of cyanoacrylate determines its behavior: a fluid formula penetrates tight assemblies, a thicker formula stays more on the surface and can fill small gaps.
• ZAP-A-GAP is a versatile cyano glue for many modeling assemblies, especially when parts do not fit perfectly.
• Zip Kicker significantly accelerates the curing of cyano, but a small amount is usually sufficient.
• Z-Poxy is particularly suitable for structural bonds, especially on wood, composites, fiber, and carbon.

Why are there several ZAP glues?

The different ZAP glues address different bonding issues, mainly by varying viscosity, curing time, flexibility, or compatibility with certain materials.

Pacer Technology develops the ZAP brand, known in modeling for its cyanoacrylates, accelerators, and epoxies.

Scientific currently references a range including ZAP cyanoacrylates, specialized products, Zip Kicker, and several Z-Poxy formulations.

This diversity may seem confusing when starting out. However, it becomes logical when thinking in terms of material and type of assembly.

A very fluid glue and a gel cyano glue are both cyanoacrylates. They simply do not behave in the same way.

What is the difference between cyanoacrylate and epoxy?

Cyanoacrylate prioritizes speed and precision, while epoxy prioritizes working time, filling, and structural assemblies.

Therefore, I do not consider epoxy as a "better cyano." The two products address different constraints.

To quickly bond a small part, I gladly use cyano glue.

To assemble an engine bulkhead, reinforce a fuselage, or make a composite bond, I look more towards Z-Poxy.

Which ZAP cyano glue to choose?

The first criterion is viscosity. The more fluid the glue, the better it can penetrate through capillarity into a tight assembly.

The thicker it is, the more it stays where you placed it.

When to use fluid ZAP CA?

The fluid ZAP CA is particularly interesting when I want the glue to quickly penetrate into a tight assembly.

It is suitable for:

• • balsa wood;
  • well-fitted wooden assemblies;
  • small repairs;
  • accessible cracks;
    • some fiber or carbon assemblies;
    • hard-to-reach areas.

I find it particularly useful when the two pieces are already perfectly positioned.

However, it is not the glue I would choose to fill a large gap. It may simply seep through the assembly or spread where I do not want it to.

When to choose ZAP-A-GAP?

The ZAP-A-GAP is the cyanoacrylate adhesive I recommend when looking for a versatile glue, thicker than a fluid cyano and capable of filling small gaps.

It is useful for:

• • • wood;
    • balsa wood;
    • some plastic parts;
    • carbon fiber;
    • fiberglass;
    • assemblies where the parts are not perfectly flush;
    • quick repairs.

This is exactly the kind of situation where I prefer ZAP-A-GAP over a very fluid cyano: I have more control.

When to use SLO-ZAP?

The SLO-ZAP is a thicker cyanoacrylate designed to provide more control during application.

I find it useful when I do not want the glue to immediately seep into the material.

It can be used on:

• • • wood;
    • balsa wood;
    • fiberglass;
    • carbon fiber;
    • some plastics;
    • some metals;
    • various materials used in modeling.

The higher viscosity becomes particularly useful when working on a vertical surface or when I want to limit drips.

When to use ZAP GEL?

The ZAP GEL is intended for bonding where I want a very thick cyanoacrylate that stays precisely where I place it.

I prefer it when:

• • • the surface is vertical;
    • I want to avoid dripping;
    • there is a relatively large gap between two pieces;
    • application precision is more important than capillarity;
    • I am working on a small piece that is difficult to hold.

However, keep in mind: a very thick glue does not replace proper mechanical preparation of the assembly.

Fluid cyano, ZAP-A-GAP, SLO-ZAP, or gel: which one to choose?

The following table allows you to make the choice in a few seconds.

Therefore, I am not looking for "the best ZAP cyano". I am looking for the right viscosity for my assembly.

Which ZAP glue to use for balsa wood?

For balsa wood, a fluid ZAP CA is very practical when the pieces are well fitted.

Balsa wood is porous. A fluid glue can penetrate the joint and allow for quick assembly.

For a balsa wood structure, however, I may prefer a ZAP-A-GAP when the pieces have small imperfections or when I want more control.

For a building airplane, I find this distinction particularly useful.

A fluid cyano for tight assemblies, a thicker cyano for less regular areas, and an epoxy for assemblies that need to withstand significant forces.

Which glue to choose for carbon fiber and fiberglass?

For carbon fiber and fiberglass, the choice mainly depends on the function of the piece and the stresses it will undergo.

A cyano can be very useful for positioning, fixing, or making certain small assemblies.

For a structural bond, I prefer Z-Poxy epoxy more.

The Z-Poxy 30 minutes is particularly useful when I need to work on a fiberglass or carbon assembly and I want to have a comfortable working time.

This is an important distinction: a glue may work well to hold a piece but may not be the one I would choose to ensure the mechanical strength of a heavily stressed assembly.

What glue to use for plastic?

For plastic, I start by identifying the plastic itself.

Not all plastics react the same way to adhesives.

That's why I never consider a glue advertised as compatible with "most plastics" automatically ideal for every polymer.

The Pacer range includes the POLY-ZAP, which I prefer for certain applications on plastics used in RC.

For plastic models, I can also opt for a glue specifically designed for plastic or styrene.

The ZAP range also includes the PLASTI-ZAP, designed for plastic applications.

What glue to use for EPO or EPP foam?

For EPO or EPP foam, I first check that the glue is explicitly compatible with the specific foam.

This is a point on which I prefer to be categorical: I do not randomly choose a cyano to repair foam.

The ZAP range includes solutions suitable for foam applications, as well as a Foam Safe Kicker referenced by Scientific.

Before a major repair, I always recommend testing on a scrap of the same material.

The exact nature of the foam, its coating, and the bonding constraints can alter the result.

What is Zip Kicker used for?

The Zip Kicker is a cyanoacrylate accelerator that significantly reduces the glue setting time.

The principle is simple. I apply my cyano, assemble the parts, then use a small amount of Zip Kicker to quickly trigger polymerization.

If you regularly use cyanoacrylates, I also recommend checking out our selection of accelerators for cyano glue.

How to use Zip Kicker?

I use it in small quantities, as there is no need to saturate the bond.

1. prepare the two pieces;
2. apply cyano on one surface;
3. position the elements;
4. apply a small amount of Zip Kicker;
5. hold the assembly;
6. check the bond before subjecting the piece to strong stress.

The accelerator is particularly useful when the natural setting time of the cyano hinders assembly.

Should an accelerator be used for every bond?

No, I do not systematically use an accelerator with cyano.

Zip Kicker becomes useful when the setting time hinders assembly or when I need to quickly immobilize a piece.

For a construction where I need to carefully reposition the pieces, I may prefer to let the cyano set naturally instead.

Is there a Foam Safe accelerator?

Yes, Pacer offers a Foam Safe Kicker, designed for applications where compatibility with foams must be considered.

I reserve it for situations where a formulation compatible with foam is truly necessary.

Which Z-Poxy epoxy to choose?

For epoxy, the main criterion becomes the time available to work before setting.

Scientific references several Z-Poxy formulations, including the 5 minutes, 15 minutes, and 30 minutes versions.

When to choose Z-Poxy 5 minutes?

The Z-Poxy 5 minutes is suitable when I need a quick setting and the parts are already prepared and positioned.

I find it particularly useful for:

• • • repairs;
    • field use;
    • small structural parts;
    • when I don't want to wait long before continuing assembly.

When to choose Z-Poxy 15 minutes?

The Z-Poxy 15 minutes provides more working time than a fast epoxy.

I would choose it when the assembly requires more precise positioning and a few extra minutes truly facilitate the assembly.

It offers an interesting compromise between speed and work comfort.

When to choose Z-Poxy 30 minutes?

Z-Poxy 30 minutes is the one I prefer when I want to take the time to properly assemble a structure.

It becomes particularly interesting for fiberglass or carbon assemblies, especially when precision positioning is required.

For a significant assembly, I generally prefer to have a few extra minutes to check the alignment rather than having to work in a hurry.

Z-Poxy 5, 15, or 30 minutes: which one to choose?

Here is the choice I would make depending on the situation.

Scientific also offers Z-Poxy Quick Shot, which is useful when I need a small quantity of epoxy in a field box.

How to properly mix Z-Poxy?

Z-Poxy is mixed in equal parts, 1:1 by volume.

This is a step I never rush. I prepare both components before starting, then I make a homogeneous mixture.

With a fast-setting epoxy, wasting several minutes looking for a tool after mixing is a bad idea.

Which adhesive to choose according to the material?

The following table summarizes my approach.

This table is a decision-making guide, not an absolute rule.

For an adhesive subjected to strong stresses, I always consider the exact nature of the surfaces and the geometry of the assembly.

Which adhesive for a remote-controlled airplane?

For an RC airplane, I usually keep several types of adhesives on hand, as a model often combines balsa, plywood, carbon, fiberglass, plastic, and foam.

Which adhesive for the balsa of an RC airplane?

I prefer ZAP CA fluid for precise assemblies, and ZAP-A-GAP when I need a bit more material or control.

Which adhesive for an engine bulkhead?

For a structural part subjected to vibrations, I tend to lean towards Z-Poxy, especially when the geometry allows for a sufficiently large joint.

Which adhesive for a carbon part?

For a structural carbon part, I generally prefer epoxy when the bonding needs to withstand significant stress.

Which adhesive for quick repairs in the field?

ZAP-A-GAP, ZAP CA, or Z-Poxy 5 minutes can meet different needs.

Cyano wins in terms of speed. Epoxy wins when I need more material and resistance suitable for a structural assembly.

Which adhesive for a RC car?

For an RC car, I consider impacts, vibrations, and repeated movements more.

Cyano is very convenient for some small repairs. It allows for quickly restoring a model.

For a structural part or a heavily stressed area, I tend to look towards a suitable epoxy.

For RC tires, Pacer also offers ZAP-RT, a reinforced cyano adhesive designed for this application.

What glue for an RC boat?

For an RC boat, I distinguish between small accessories and structural assemblies.

For a small part or quick fix, cyano can be handy.

For a hull or composite assembly, I generally prefer Z-Poxy epoxy, especially when a sufficient working time is needed to properly position the parts.

What glue for a plastic model?

For a plastic model, I choose the glue based on the type of plastic and the desired finish.

A specific plastic glue may be more suitable for clean assemblies on styrene parts.

For a small piece added to a model, cyano can be very useful, especially when attaching a piece made of a different material like metal or resin.

The PLASTI-ZAP is one of the specialized solutions offered by Pacer for plastic.

Why use ZAP-O?

The ZAP-O-ORDORLESS is a cyano formulated for users looking for a low odor solution.

I mainly consider it as a response to a comfort constraint in work.

However, this does not change the fundamental rule: working in good conditions, following safety precautions, and avoiding contact with skin or eyes.

What is ZAP GOO used for?

ZAP GOO is a flexible glue, different from a typical cyano.

This characteristic becomes useful when a bond needs to withstand certain movements or when I do not want a joint as rigid as with cyano.

Therefore, I do not automatically replace it with cyano. The desired mechanical behavior is different.

Is there a ZAP glue for canopies?

Yes, the Pacer range includes the 560 Canopy Glue.

For a canopy, a clean bond is often more important than an extremely quick setting time.

Therefore, I prefer a glue designed for this application rather than choosing a cyano every time.

This is particularly relevant on transparent surfaces, where improper use of cyano or accelerator can leave visible marks.

How to prepare a surface before bonding?

Good glue does not compensate for a poorly prepared surface.

Before a significant bond, I check:

1. that the parts are clean;
2. that they are properly aligned;
3. that they are free of grease or dust;
4. that their surface is suitable for the chosen adhesive;
5. that I can hold the assembly for the necessary duration.

For a heavily stressed part, I prefer to spend a few minutes preparing rather than trying to compensate for poor alignment with a lot of glue.

You can also check our page on PACER cyanoacrylate glues to find the different available solutions.

Do you need a lot of cyano for a strong bond?

No, a large amount of cyano does not automatically improve the bond.

Cyano is generally used in a relatively thin layer. The required amount depends on the viscosity and geometry of the joint.

With a thin ZAP CA, a few drops may be enough to saturate a well-aligned assembly.

With ZAP-A-GAP or SLO-ZAP, I can apply more material when the joint has a small gap.

But if the parts are poorly aligned, I prefer to correct the assembly rather than create a large bead of glue.

How to avoid white marks with cyano?

To avoid visible defects, I limit the amount of glue and accelerator, and I perform a test when the finish is important.

Transparent parts are particularly sensitive to this kind of issue.

Therefore, I prefer a glue suitable for the application, like a canopy glue when necessary, rather than trying to use a universal cyano everywhere.

What to do if you put too much cyano?

Pacer offers a debonding product to facilitate the separation of certain parts assembled with cyano.

I consider the debonder as a correction tool, not a universal eraser.

Before applying it on a painted, plastic, or fragile part, I check compatibility and perform a discreet test.

What errors to avoid with ZAP glue?

The most common errors are easy to avoid.

Using a cyano incompatible with the material

A glue can be excellent but still unsuitable for a given material.

Applying too much product

An excessive layer increases the risk of dripping, overflowing, or unsightly finish.

Using too much accelerator

I always start with a small amount of Zip Kicker.

Approximately mixing epoxy

With Z-Poxy, I follow the 1:1 by volume ratio.

Working too quickly with epoxy

Even a 5-minute Z-Poxy requires some preparation.

I always prepare the parts before mixing the components.

Forgetting mechanical constraints

A small decorative piece and an engine bulkhead do not require the same glue.

This is probably the most important rule in this entire guide.

Which ZAP glue kit is best for starting in modeling?

To start without unnecessarily multiplying bottles, I would put together a kit around four products.

1. ZAP CA ThinFor precise assemblies and balsa wood.

2. ZAP-A-GAPFor versatile bonding and small gaps.

3. Zip KickerTo speed up curing when needed.

4. Z-Poxy 30 minutesFor structural assemblies and composite materials.

This combination already covers a large part of an RC workshop's needs.

For a foam plane, I would then add a solution explicitly compatible with foam.

For an RC car, I could complement with a suitable tire glue.

For a plastic model, I would add a glue dedicated to plastic or styrene.

Which glue kit for an experienced modeler?

If I regularly build different models, I prefer to have multiple viscosities rather than a single supposedly universal glue.

• • • ZAP CA Thin;
    • ZAP-A-GAP;
    • SLO-ZAP;
    • ZAP GEL;
    • foam-compatible glue;
    • Zip Kicker;
    • Foam Safe Kicker;
    • Z-Poxy 5 minutes;
    • Z-Poxy 15 minutes;
    • Z-Poxy 30 minutes;
    • Debonder;
    • 560 Canopy Glue;
    • tire-specific glue for RC models as per the built models.

I obviously do not use everything for each assembly.

The idea is to be able to choose the right product without resorting to an approximate solution.

Which ZAP glue to choose? My decision table

If you are still unsure, simply start with the need.

Available references and packaging may change.

A ZAP brochure is available on our website for an overview of all references and available contents.

You can order this ZAP SUPERGLUE brochure or download it from our site.

I recommend checking the product sheet before use, especially for exact compatibility with your material.

Frequently Asked Questions about ZAP glues

What is the best ZAP glue for modeling?

There is no single best ZAP glue. For general use, I find ZAP-A-GAP particularly versatile.

For balsa wood and tight assemblies, I prefer the Thin ZAP CA. For structural bonding, I would rather look at Z-Poxy.

What is the difference between ZAP CA and ZAP-A-GAP?

ZAP CA is thinner, while ZAP-A-GAP is thicker and more suitable for small gaps.

The choice therefore depends mainly on the adjustment of the parts.

What ZAP glue for balsa wood?

I would first choose a thin ZAP CA when the joint is precise.

A ZAP-A-GAP becomes interesting when the joint has small defects or when I want more control.

What glue for EPO or EPP foam?

I choose a formulation explicitly compatible with foam.

I do not assume that a standard cyano is automatically suitable for EPO or EPP.

Can Zip Kicker be used with ZAP cyano?

Yes. Zip Kicker is designed to accelerate the curing of cyanoacrylates.

Do you need to use a lot of Zip Kicker?

No. I start with a small amount. The goal is to speed up curing, not saturate the part.

What's the difference between Z-Poxy 5 and 30 minutes?

Z-Poxy 5 minutes prioritizes speed.

Z-Poxy 30 minutes allows more time to position parts and is particularly suitable for assemblies requiring more preparation.

How to mix Z-Poxy?

I mix the two components in equal parts, 1:1 by volume, then I ensure a perfectly homogeneous mixture before application.

What glue for an RC car?

For quick small repairs, cyano can be very convenient.

For a structural part subjected to impacts and vibrations, I generally prefer a suitable epoxy. For RC tires, Pacer also offers ZAP-RT.

What glue for an RC boat?

For small accessories, cyano can be suitable.

For structural assemblies of a hull or parts in fiberglass and carbon, Z-Poxy offers a more suitable solution.

What glue for a plastic model?

I prefer a glue dedicated to plastic or styrene for classic assemblies.

A specialized cyano like PLASTI-ZAP can be interesting for certain plastic parts.

How to store cyanoacrylate glue?

I keep the bottle tightly closed, in the conditions indicated by the manufacturer, and limit its exposure to moisture and air as much as possible.

The cleanliness of the tip is also important. A clogged cap or tip will eventually make a good glue difficult to use.

Can Z-Poxy be sanded?

Yes, Z-Poxy formulations can be worked on after curing for finishing and sanding operations.

Is cyano always more resistant than epoxy?

No. Resistance depends on the formulation, material, bonding surface, and especially the design of the assembly.

So I choose based on mechanical stress rather than just curing speed.

My choice of ZAP glues for a modeling workshop

If I had to start from scratch, I wouldn't immediately fill an entire shelf with bottles.

I would start with a ZAP CA, a ZAP-A-GAP, a Zip Kicker, and a Z-Poxy 30 minutes.

With these four products, I already cover the main cases encountered in RC construction and repair: quick assemblies, balsa wood, small clearances, curing acceleration, and structural bonding.

Then, I would add according to my models.

SLO-ZAP and ZAP GEL if I need higher viscosities,

a formulation suitable for foams if I fly with EPO or EPP models,

PLASTI-ZAP or POLY-ZAP if I regularly work with plastic,

and a faster Z-Poxy if on-field repairs are frequent.

You can also find all available references in our Pacer Technology / ZAP glue range.

Ultimately, the simplest way to understand the ZAP range is: I don't choose a glue because it's stronger or faster, I choose it because it suits the work I need to do.

And this is where the diversity of the Pacer Technology range becomes interesting for modelers: instead of looking for a universal glue, I can adapt viscosity, curing speed, and adhesive technology to each assembly.