Evergreen Profiles: How to choose the right size?

• The dimension of an Evergreen profile directly influences the realism of your model.
• Each shape exists in many sizes suitable for different uses.
• The choice mainly depends on the scale and the part to be reproduced.
• A profile that is too thick or too thin can harm the final appearance.
• I always recommend having multiple dimensions in your workshop.
• Evergreen profiles and plastic sheets complement each other perfectly.

When discovering Evergreen profiles, one question almost always arises: which dimension to choose? I completely understand this hesitation. The range is immense. Several hundred references are available, with very different sections, shapes, and dimensions.

Initially, I tended to choose a profile simply because it looked like the piece I wanted to reproduce. With experience, I realized that the choice of dimension is often more important than the choice of shape.

A slightly too thick profile can immediately catch the eye and give a model an unrealistic appearance. Conversely, a profile that is too thin may lack rigidity or visually disappear after painting.

That is precisely why I wanted to create this guide. My goal is to help you choose the right dimension from the start to achieve a credible and harmonious result.

If you are discovering the Evergreen range, I also recommend consulting our Complete Guide to Evergreen Profiles. You will find all available shapes and their main uses there.

Why is dimension so important?

I consider that the dimension of a profile influences three essential elements:

• realism;
• strength;
• ease of assembly.

These three criteria are closely related.

A beam made with a profile that is too large will immediately appear disproportionate. A railing made with a too thin rod will become very fragile. A partition made with a profile that is too small will then complicate assembly.

Therefore, I always prefer to take a few minutes to think before selecting my profiles. This small step often helps avoid many mistakes later on.

How does Evergreen classify its profiles?

One of Evergreen's great qualities lies in the richness of its catalog.

Each family of profiles is available in several dozen dimensions.

These include:

• flat profiles;
• round rods;
• tubes;
• square profiles;
• rectangular profiles;
• angles;
• U profiles;
• H profiles;
• I profiles;
• T profiles.

Each shape meets a specific need, but each shape also exists in many dimensions.

In my opinion, it is precisely this diversity that makes the brand strong.

If you want to understand the advantages of Evergreen compared to other manufacturers, I also invite you to read our article Why Choose Evergreen.

The first criterion: the scale of the model

Before even looking at the dimensions of a profile, I always start by observing the scale of the model.

It determines the apparent size of all parts.

The smaller the scale, the thinner the profiles should be.

Conversely, a large scale will allow the use of larger sections.

These values are simply a working basis. Some parts will naturally require larger dimensions.

Not all parts have the same dimension

This is a mistake I regularly encounter.

Many modelers use exactly the same profile section throughout their project.

However, in reality, each element has its own dimensions.

Let's take the example of a railway hangar.

The main posts will be much thicker than the secondary crossbars.

The gutters will use yet another section.

Diagonal reinforcements will be thinner.

Window frames will sometimes use different profiles.

It is precisely this variation that brings a lot of realism.

Observing the real model

Before choosing a profile, I always take a few minutes to observe photographs of the actual vehicle or building.

This step allows me to compare the different thicknesses present on the structure.

I don't necessarily try to measure each element precisely.

I prefer to observe the proportions.

This method works remarkably well, even when the original plans are unavailable.

Continued in part 2: we will see how to choose dimensions according to the type of profile (flat, round, tube, angle, U, H, I, T...), which sizes to prioritize according to usage, and which profiles are the most versatile to always have in your workshop.

Choosing the dimension according to the profile's use

I think there is a very common mistake among modelers who discover the Evergreen range. They choose a profile solely by looking at its width or diameter. However, this is not the best method.

Before even looking at the dimensions, I always ask myself a very simple question:

What will this piece be used for?

The answer almost always determines the right section.

A door handle obviously will not have the same dimensions as a metal beam. A hydraulic pipe will be much thinner than a safety roll bar. This logic seems obvious, but it avoids a lot of mistakes.

I always try to reproduce the real proportions rather than seeking an exact dimension to the tenth of a millimeter.

Choosing a profile to represent a structure

When it comes to building a framework, rigidity becomes an essential criterion.

I then prefer slightly larger sections so that the structure remains perfectly stable during assembly.

This concerns in particular:

• frameworks;
• buildings;
• sheds;
• bridges;
• frames;
• chassis.

I often prefer to use a slightly stronger profile rather than having to reinforce the entire structure later on.

Choosing a profile to reproduce a detail

Conversely, when a profile is only used to represent a visible detail, I primarily look for finesse.

I think, for example, of:

• handles;
• pipes;
• wiring;
• decorative moldings;
• window mullions;
• fuselage reinforcements.

In these situations, a too large section immediately catches the eye.

I always prefer to stay slightly below the apparent dimension rather than above.

The result generally appears more realistic.

Recommended dimensions according to function

These values are excellent starting points. Then, each project naturally has its own constraints.

Choosing the right dimension according to the shape

Each family of Evergreen profiles has its advantages.

Over time, I have gotten into the habit of using certain sections almost automatically.

Flat profiles

Flat profiles remain, in my opinion, the most versatile.

They allow for the fabrication of:

• reinforcement strips;
• longerons;
• cross members;
• frames;
• supports.

Dimensions between 0.50 and 1.50 mm already meet a large part of the needs encountered in modeling.

Round rods

I almost always use them to reproduce:

• axles;
• cylinders;
• pipes;
• columns;
• rigid cables.

Diameters from 0.50 to 1 mm are the most common.

Tubes

Evergreen tubes are perfect for:

• exhausts;
• masts;
• antennas;
• roll bars;
• pipelines.

I generally choose the smallest diameter capable of accurately reproducing the real piece.

Square profiles

They are particularly suitable for:

• metal structures;
• frameworks;
• frames;
• supports;
• frameworks.

Sections of 1 to 2 mm represent an excellent compromise between rigidity and finesse.

Angles

L-shaped profiles are ideal for reproducing metal assemblies.

I almost always recommend small dimensions.

They bring more realism.

U profiles

Their geometry allows for reproducing slides, rails, or technical supports.

They are very common in military vehicles and industrial buildings.

H and I profiles

These references perfectly reproduce metal beams.

They are widely used for:

• bridges;
• hangars;
• workshops;
• cranes;
• industrial buildings.

I always prefer to choose a slightly thinner section than what seems ideal to me. Once painted, it often appears closer to reality.

The dimensions I use most often

After several years of modeling, certain references constantly come back on my workbench.

With just these few references, it is already possible to create a wide variety of projects.

If you want to discover all the profile families and their areas of use, I recommend reading our Complete Guide to Evergreen Profiles.

Plastic sheets are also an excellent complement. They allow you to make surfaces, while profiles reproduce structures. You can discover their many applications in our guide dedicated to Evergreen Plastic Sheets.

Continued in part 3: we will see how to choose dimensions according to the type of model (aircraft, armored, automobile, train, boat, or building), the most common mistakes, and the tips I use to achieve a perfectly realistic result.

Choosing the dimension according to the type of model

I have noticed that there is no universal dimension. A profile perfectly suited for an aircraft model may sometimes be too thin for an industrial building. That's why I always start by identifying the type of project before choosing my references.

This approach saves me time and avoids buying profiles that will remain unused in drawers.

Aircraft models

In the aeronautical field, fineness is essential.

Real aircraft have relatively light structures. If the profiles are oversized, realism quickly disappears.

I generally prefer:

I always prefer to observe several photographs of the actual aircraft before selecting my profiles.

Armored vehicles

Military vehicles have much more massive structures.

Profiles can therefore be slightly larger without compromising realism.

I use them especially to reproduce:

• tool supports;
• mudguards;
• trunks;
• protections;
• armor reinforcements.

Sections between 1 and 2 mm already cover a large part of the needs.

Automobiles

On cars, I pay particular attention to proportions.

Bodywork amounts, roll bars, or chassis elements must remain credible.

For 1/24 scale models, I frequently use:

• 0.75 to 1 mm rods;
• 1 to 2 mm flat profiles;
• 1.5 to 3 mm tubes.

These dimensions generally offer a very good balance between realism and strength.

Railway modeling

Railway modeling is probably the universe where I use the greatest variety of profiles.

Buildings, bridges, platforms, and technical installations require many different sections.

I often combine:

• angle irons;
• H profiles;
• I profiles;
• U profiles;
• round rods.

This diversity allows for faithfully reproducing the visible metal structures on railway networks.

Boats

Ship models also use a wide variety of sections.

I often come across:

• rails;
• masts;
• yards;
• pipes;
• gangways;
• supports.

In this field, the fineness of the profiles contributes significantly to realism.

Buildings and dioramas

Miniature buildings generally require the largest sections.

Beams, frameworks, or metal structures must remain sufficiently rigid.

Therefore, I do not hesitate to use profiles from 2 to 4 mm when the scale allows it.

The most common errors I encounter

Over the years, I have observed several errors that occur regularly.

Choosing too large

This is by far the most common.

For safety, many modelers choose a slightly thicker profile.

However, once painted, it appears even more massive.

I almost always prefer to choose the smaller dimension.

Using the same section everywhere

In reality, a structure always has several thicknesses.

Reproducing this diversity adds a lot of realism.

Not considering the paint

This error is often overlooked.

A primer coat, followed by several layers of paint, slightly increases the visible dimensions.

I always keep this additional thickness in mind.

Ignoring photographs

Even when no plan is available, a few photographs allow for a very accurate estimation of proportions.

I always take the time to observe them before starting.

My tips for achieving a realistic result

Over the projects, some habits have become almost automatic.

• I always compare several photographs.
• I do a dry fit before gluing.
• I regularly check the proportions.
• I mix several profile sections.
• I prefer slightly smaller dimensions.
• I always keep some scraps for testing.

These small habits significantly improve the final result.

Combining profiles with plastic sheets

In my opinion, it is difficult to fully utilize Evergreen profiles without also using plastic sheets.

Profiles are used to build structures.

Plastic sheets are then used to create:

• walls;
• floors;
• partitions;
• panels;
• roofs;
• coverings.

This complementarity offers almost unlimited creative freedom.

I invite you to discover our comprehensive guide dedicated to Evergreen plastic sheets. You will find many tips for choosing the right thicknesses and using them effectively.

Continued in part 4: we will finish with the dimensions that I recommend to always have in your workshop, the most versatile references, a complete FAQ, and links to other Evergreen guides to enhance your scratch building skills.

The dimensions I recommend to have in your workshop

After many projects, I realized that certain dimensions consistently reappear. If I were to set up an Evergreen workshop from scratch, I would start with just a few references, but I would choose them carefully.

This small stock already allows for completing a large part of scratch building projects, transformations, or model repairs.

With these few references, I already cover the majority of my projects.

When to Buy a Specific Dimension?

However, some constructions require much more specific sections.

This is particularly the case for:

• large-scale reproductions;
• industrial buildings;
• metal bridges;
• cranes;
• ships;
• architectural models.

In these situations, I prefer to purchase references tailored to the project rather than seeking a compromise.

The final result is always more convincing.

How to Verify the Correct Dimension?

Before any gluing, I almost always do a dry fit assembly.

I simply place the profile on the model.

Then I observe several points.

• Does the piece look natural?
• Is it consistent with the other elements?
• Does it unnecessarily draw attention?
• Does the paint risk visually thickening it?

This check only takes a few minutes.

Yet it prevents many errors that are difficult to correct after gluing.

Why Do Multiple Dimensions Provide a Better Result?

When I observe a real structure, I immediately notice that not all pieces have the same section.

The main posts are more imposing.

The cross members become thinner.

The reinforcements are different again.

The pipes have their own diameter.

It is precisely this variety that creates a sense of realism.

I therefore advise never to build an entire model with a single profile dimension.

Even a slight difference between two sections immediately adds more credibility.

Enhancing Profiles with Plastic Sheets

In my opinion, Evergreen profiles truly shine when combined with plastic sheets.

The sheets allow for creating surfaces.

The profiles then replicate load-bearing elements, reinforcements, and all structural details.

This combination is used daily by many model makers.

If you want to delve deeper into this topic, I recommend reading our guide dedicated to Evergreen plastic sheets.

Where to Buy the Right Evergreen Profile Dimensions?

Evergreen currently offers hundreds of references.

Profiles of all shapes and various dimensions are available, catering to the needs of both beginners and experienced model makers.

You can explore our complete selection directly in our dedicated Evergreen profiles store, where references are categorized by shape to facilitate your choice.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most versatile dimension?

There is no single answer. However, flat profiles of 1 × 0.5 mm, round rods of 0.75 mm, and square profiles of 1 mm are among the most commonly used references.

Can a slightly larger profile be used?

Yes, but with caution. An overly thick piece immediately appears disproportionate. I generally prefer to choose the smaller dimension.

How to determine the right size without a plan?

I rely on several photographs of the real model and compare the proportions with other visible elements.

Are Evergreen profiles easy to cut?

Yes. A sharp cutter or a small modeling saw can provide very clean cuts.

How to glue the profiles?

Polystyrene glues offer the best results. They create a true bond between the pieces.

You will find all the techniques in our guide: How to glue Evergreen profiles.

Why is Evergreen considered a reference?

The precision of the dimensions, the quality of the polystyrene, and the range's extent explain why Evergreen has become the benchmark brand for scratch building.

I also invite you to discover our article: Why choose Evergreen.

To go further

Choosing the right dimension of Evergreen profile mainly requires a bit of observation and logic. With experience, this step becomes very intuitive. I always take the time to study the proportions of the real model, to make a dry fit assembly, and to compare several sections before permanently gluing a piece.

This method allows me to obtain more harmonious, stronger, and above all much more realistic models.

If you want to deepen your knowledge of the Evergreen range and improve your scratch building techniques, I also recommend these additional guides:

• Complete guide to Evergreen profiles;
• Evergreen plastic sheets: complete guide;
• How to glue Evergreen profiles;
• Evergreen profiles: the benchmark of scratch building;
• Discover the Evergreen profiles available in the shop.

By combining these different guides, you will have all the necessary information to choose the right dimensions, select the profiles suitable for each project, and fully exploit the potential of the Evergreen range.